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Ever Wanted to Ski in Japan? This Is Your Year

(Bloomberg)

(Bloomberg Businessweek) -- Japan’s appeal for skiers was already strong before the weak yen started drawing more of them—what with some of the world’s best powder, slopeside ramen shops, and a bevy of hot springs to soothe sore muscles. But as snow feels increasingly iffy in other regions and the exchange rate continues to be so favorable, Japan’s ski towns are expecting a record-setting winter of visitors. According to Ski.com, a provider of ski vacation experiences which mainly caters to a North American clientele, bookings to Japan for the upcoming season had already grown 600% year over year before the summer drew to a close in late August.

Though there’s epic skiing to be had within three hours of Tokyo, the lion’s share of international powder chasers head much farther north to Niseko, Japan’s most iconic ski area, in Hokkaido. Niseko is indeed worth the hype—and more people decided to try it out last year than ever before, with visitation up 26% from the previous winter. Among the 10 million people who scanned their lift tickets at the area's four resorts, there was a noticeable uptick in the number of North Americans, according to local reports.

Instead of considering Niseko your only option, think of it as one of several great choices. Given the impressive connectivity of Japan's efficient and punctual high-speed Shinkansen train system, there are dozens of ski resorts around the country that may better fit your bill. In order to help you pick your powder, here’s a side-by-side look at our three favorite Japanese ski spots, Niseko included.

Niseko

The rundown: Low humidity makes this ski area’s snowfall—440 inches, on annual average—some of the softest anywhere. It blankets four resorts interconnected by shuttle buses: Grand Hirafu, Hanazono, Niseko Village and Annupuri.

The terrain: Expect long forested trails throughout, with longer beginner runs at Hirafu and Niseko Village. For more extreme riders, there are many outfitters that offer heli and cat skiing in the backcountry. (Hokkaido Backcountry Club is a popular option, with heli trips at about $1,350 per day.)

How to get there: A 90-minute flight from Tokyo to Sapporo, plus a three-hour bus or train ride.

Cost of a day’s lift ticket: 10,500 yen ($72) for access to all four peaks; free with an Ikon Pass

Where to stay: The year-old Muwa Niseko hotel offers apartment-style rooms and suites with ski-in and ski-out access to Grand Hirafu, where a new 10-seat gondola is set to open this season with Wi-Fi and heated seats. There’s also a slopeside Park Hyatt in the more upscale Hanazono area and a Ritz-Carlton Reserve a few minutes’ drive outside Niseko Village.

The scene: Prioritize Bar Gyu+, a fancy speakeasy in Hirafu town hidden behind a refrigerator door, and Toshiro’s Bar, with its enviable whisky selection from Japanese distillers such as Yoichi and Yamazaki. For food, there’s Izakaya Nidaime Samurai, which does great Hokkaido fried chicken.

One caveat: Expect crowds of tourists, little authentic Japanese culture and even fewer food options. We’ve spent evenings eating kebabs at a food truck rather than around a table with friends.

Hakuba Valley

The rundown: These 10 resorts around a village in the Japanese Alps are abuzz as the “next Niseko,” with snow to match.

The terrain: There’s something for everyone. The large, popular Happo-One resort hosted races in the Nagano Olympics and is known for its steeps. Get ungroomed pow in the off-piste paradise of Cortina.

How to get there: A 90-minute high-speed train from Tokyo to Nagano, plus a one-hour bus ride—or a 3.5-hour total drive. (It helps to have a car.)

Cost of a day’s lift ticket: 9,500 yen; five days free with an Epic Pass

Where to stay: The Echoland area offers the most central access to restaurants and resorts. Nearby is La Vigne, opening this December with modern condo stays. Another option: the 19 luxury chalets run by bilingual agency Hakuba White Fox.

The scene: In Echoland, book at Izakaya Hie for Japanese small plates. Or Hybrid, where the menu focuses on fermentation—think chicken with shoyu-koji cured egg yolk.

One caveat: With many resorts and a main commercial area, you’ll have to choose between being in the social mix or near the slopes.

Nozawa Onsen

The rundown: Besides the sprawling terrain, you’re here for the picturesque hot springs with narrow, shop-lined streets in town—a combo that yields a deeper cultural experience.

The terrain: Forty-six trails befit all skill levels, ranging from the meandering 5-mile green to the daring Challenge 39°, named for its vertiginous pitch. Fun fact: You can see the Sea of Japan from the summit.

How to get there: Two hours from Tokyo, if you combine a train to Iiyama and a 25-minute taxi ride.

Cost of a day’s lift ticket: 7,300 yen

Where to stay: Most hotels here are traditional Japanese inns, but Kawamotoya is an exception. Its apartment-style rooms have en suite bathrooms and a gym; the property was renovated in 2022.

The scene: What scene? The point here is to soak in the hot springs after a day on the slopes—there are numerous free places to take a dip. But if you insist on a drink, Guruguru has a wall-to-wall collection of records and a menu that focuses on natural wine. For a special meal, the restaurant in Hotel Haus St. Anton cooks local vegetables using heat from the natural hot springs; the presentations look like paintings. There’s also Banri for yakinku—order marinated cuts of lamb to grill at the table.

One caveat: It’s hard to build new property in a historical hot springs town, which is why there’s little in the way of luxury digs.

©2024 Bloomberg L.P.