(Bloomberg) -- This review was originally published on Oct. 3 as part of the Hong Kong Edition newsletter.
Go to Watermark for good seafood and stunning views of Victoria Harbour before the hordes notice it has reopened.
After spending about six years as a private events space, Cafe Deco’s Watermark resumed serving normal diners on Sept. 16 after refurbishing its interior and revamping the menu.
The price is hard to beat, especially considering it is right on the water, above the Star Ferry terminal in Central, and offers a 270-degree harbor panorama. The two-course set lunch starts at HK$238 ($31) and the three-course from HK$298.
Out-of-towners might enjoy taking a stroll along the wraparound glass-walled terrace and watching the ferries zip back and forth. I went on Wednesday with a shipping executive, who happened to be a patron of the Hong Kong Maritime Museum next door, and our bill came to HK$1,481, including drinks. We didn’t end up checking out the museum as a post-lunch activity as he recommended, but he swears it’s a great way to understand Hong Kong’s history and its key role as a shipping hub.
The vibe: It’s bright and airy, with high ceilings and furniture inspired by — of course — ocean waves and ship anchors. Then there’s the view. It may be a great place to hold difficult conversations, as the surrounding water and relaxed ambience provide a calming effect. On a clear autumn day, the sky almost matches the Tiffany blue accents across the 3,300-square-foot space.
Who’s next to you: Well, nobody...yet. When we went, a couple of weeks after it reopened, we were surrounded by empty tables, though a handful of casually dressed diners came in later. It can seat up to 88 diners, and there are standing cocktail tables throughout if you just want a quick post-work drink.
Can you conduct a meeting here? Yes. The space is gigantic so you can probably even hold a team-building exercise here if you want. There are no private rooms, though the staff did point out the bridal room upstairs that towers above the restaurant like a wood-paneled castle. This is a vestige of all the wedding events held here in years past.
What we’d order again: Apart from the set lunches, it does have an a la carte menu that features everything from pastas to salads and steaks. The portion sizes are generous, but not so much you’d be stuffed.
We tried the seafood platter (HK$588 for the half portion and HK$998 for the full one), which the staff recommended. Every crustacean and mollusk on the platter was delicious, and while it initially looked too big, it turned out to be just the right portion for two not-too-hungry people.
My guest, a connoisseur of seafood broth, gave the lobster bisque high marks and also enjoyed his roasted chicken with pickled beetroot and potato puree. I tried the heirloom tomato salad with feta cheese and pine nuts, and it provided a burst of freshness right before I indulged in the creamy seared salmon with fennel, popped rice and colcannon (Irish mashed potatoes). The desserts, tiramisu and poached pear, were also good.
Need to know: Watermark is located on the upper floor of the Star Ferry terminal, which is Central Pier No. 7. It’s on the same level as the pedestrian bridge connecting to IFC. It’s open daily from noon to 10 p.m. Reservations can be made online, by phone, WhatsApp or email.
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