(Bloomberg) -- This is a review originally published on Aug. 22 as part of the Hong Kong Edition newsletter.
For fans of Spanish and Japanese cuisine, try both at Michelin-starred Ando.
Headed by Argentinian Chef Agustin Balbi, who co-founded the restaurant four years ago, the dual-gastronomic menu reflects his Spanish heritage, coupled with his training in Japan. The result is a gem located on Wellington Street, adjacent to the rowdy bars of Lan Kwai Fong.
Though not new — Ando was first awarded a Michelin star in 2021 — the restaurant has long been nearly impossible to book. But lately, getting a table is doable if you reserve a week or two in advance.
I went to Ando this week with a foodie contact who is an avid reader of this newsletter. We chose the four-course Presentation Menu set that included a raw dish, a cooked one, Balbi’s signature caldoso rice and dessert. The bill came to HK$888 ($114) a person.
The vibe: Chic and cozy. The restaurant only had five tables when we visited, but felt very spacious. The interior was classic and minimalist, dark, yet elegant, with different tones of brown and dark gray present all over. The tables were big enough for groups of up to four, and spaced quite far from each other — sparing you from being forced to hear others’ conversations.
Balbi is hard to miss working his magic because of the open kitchen. Bonus points for the staff, who were very friendly, attentive and were eager to take the time to share details about the restaurant and its dishes.
Who’s next to you: A party of four elegant Hong Kong elderly women sat nearby. Some young professionals were at another table, while a family of visitors occupied another. All were dressed smartly.
Can you conduct a meeting there? Yes, the space is quiet and discreet. It’s a nice choice for small gatherings, and a good option to impress visitors.
What we’d order again: Definitely go for a set menu that includes the signature Sin Lola caldoso rice, a creamy and delicate variation of the traditional rice soup enjoyed in Spanish homes. It’s a dish that pays homage to the chef’s grandmother, who had a big influence over his cooking, and it certainly evoked a “grandma comfort food” feel for me.
As a Brazilian who deeply appreciates a good steak, I really enjoyed my main dish — the Argentinian beef served with Yunnan wild mushroom and amontillado sherry sauce. My guest was very happy with the lisa, a fish popular in Mallorca, with razor clams and daikon winter radish.
Need to know: Ando is located one story above the ground floor of the Somptueux Central building on 52 Wellington Street. There’s a deposit of HK$500 a head to secure lunch reservations, and double that for dinner. It’s closed on Sundays.
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